Yarn is yarn and wool is… WHAT?
Who hasn't been there? You've bought the new pattern, the yarn has been sitting there for ages, like a King Charles Chardonnay, long overdue for knitting. So, whoosh, you quickly print out the pattern and off you go… um, what? "4ply and lace held together and then you have a sport weight up to DK." Okay, that's not what we were expecting. Back to square one and time to rummage through the yarn stash again (affectionately known as stash diving).
Seventeen curses and oaths later, you're on your way to the wool shop or to your trusted hand dyer to finally cast on the precious piece, because unfortunately, none of the hoarded wool treasures had "Ply" or "Lace" written on them.
Once you arrive, the owner will chirp to you from afar: "Kaffetschi?" Yes, they know each other.
Relieved that 4ply, lace and other fabrics were readily available in one's favorite color, the path now leads one, with a full bag and an empty wallet, finally towards Cast-on, as it is so nicely called on social media.
To shed some light on the matter and to fill the knowledge base a little, let's take a closer look at these terms.
What does "Ply" actually mean?
"Ply" in English means layer or layer. In the past, it was incredibly simple: a thread was a thread – always the same thickness. So you could easily say, "This is 2-ply, 4-ply, or 8-ply," and everyone immediately knew how thick the yarn was.
Today… well, today yarn is a bit of a chameleon. A single strand can be gossamer-thin or cuddly thick, and a "4-ply" can suddenly consist of 10 or 20 strands. In short: The old rule has become somewhat obsolete and now only makes half the sense – but in Great Britain, Australia, and New Zealand, they bravely cling to it.
Note: Ply tells you how many strands are twisted together – but it's no longer a reliable indicator of how thick your yarn actually is. Yarns are like people: you can't always tell how much potential they hold. 😄
Lace – the delicate diva among yarns
"Lace" means "lace" in German – and that's exactly how it feels: feather-light, ultra-thin, and sometimes a little temperamental. Several yarn weights fall into this category:
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Thread – as thin as sewing thread or fine crochet yarn of size 10. Perfect for lace kings and indoors.
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Cobweb – also affectionately known as "1ply" in Great Britain and Australia. It's almost easy to see through.
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Laceweight – usually about as thin as "2ply". However, the name is somewhat flexible and is often used for anything suitable for lace patterns.
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Light Fingering – approximately 3ply. Some British manufacturers also call it "Baby weight" – sounds cute, but it knits up like a "big" yarn.
Interestingly, lace yarns are often knitted with larger needles so the pattern can breathe properly. A gauge swatch is essential – yes, even though none of us like knitting gauge swatches. With needles between 1.5 and 2.5 mm, you should get approximately 32–40 stitches per 10 cm.
Lace is delicate – but not to be underestimated. Once knitted in, it develops a real diva charm. 💕
Super Fine or Fingering – the all-rounder for socks & more
"Super Fine" is a US term and roughly corresponds to what many of us know as fingering, 4-ply, or sock weight. Perfect for socks, scarves, and delicate tops—but be aware: the term "sock weight" isn't strictly standardized. Every manufacturer has their own interpretation.
German manufacturers often use terms like 4-speed or 6-speed. 4-speed is roughly equivalent to 4-ply. 6-speed, on the other hand, is significantly thicker and leans more towards sport or DK gear, meaning needles are typically 3.5–5 mm.
In Great Britain, both 3-ply and 4-ply yarns are often sold as "baby yarns"—but even here, the thickness can vary considerably. Some manufacturers further categorize these baby yarns into weight classes 0 to 3.
For a gauge swatch, you're on the right track with 2.75–3.5 mm needles – ideally, you should get 27–32 stitches per 10 cm.
What does "fingering" mean – and where does the word come from?
"Fingering" is a traditional English term for a yarn thickness – and has nothing to do with fingers in the literal sense. The term originates from the historical textile world, where yarns were often named after their intended use.
"Fingering yarn" was originally a thin yarn that could be easily worked with the fingers, especially for fine knitting, lace patterns, and lightweight garments. It was soft, smooth, and easy to control – ideal for "finger-friendly" work.
Over time, "fingering" has become established as a fixed yarn weight and today refers to everything in the Super Fine / 4ply / Sock Weight range.
In short:
Fingering = an old word for fine, finger-friendly yarn that has survived to this day in the knitting world.
What does the yarn weight "Fine" or "Sport" mean?
"Fine" refers to a yarn weight also known as Sport or Sportweight in the USA. In the Australian system, it corresponds approximately to 5 ply. There is no exact British equivalent, as the system there has developed somewhat differently.
For this yarn weight, a gauge swatch with 3.25–3.75 mm needles typically yields 24–27 stitches per 10 cm. Generally, 3.5–4.5 mm needles can also be used for fine yarns; depending on the project, desired texture, and knitting tension, larger or smaller needles may be used.
Fine is therefore pleasantly situated between Fingering and DK – versatile, easily controllable and ideal for light sweaters, scarves and garments with a bit more substance.
What does the yarn weight "Light" or DK mean?
"Light" refers to a yarn weight often known as DK or Double Knitting. In the Australian system, this is roughly equivalent to 8 ply. There is no direct equivalent in the USA, although the term "Light Worsted" is occasionally used for similar yarns – but without a fixed standard.
With this yarn weight, a gauge swatch using 3.75–4.5 mm needles typically yields 21–24 stitches per 10 cm. Generally, 3.5–5.5 mm needles can be used for DK yarns, depending on the desired texture and personal knitting style.
Where does the term DK come from?
DK or Light is therefore a very versatile, widely used yarn weight – ideal for sweaters, cardigans, accessories and projects with a beautiful, clear stitch structure.
The term "double knitting" originates from the English knitting tradition and refers to a technique that uses two strands of yarn simultaneously. Originally, "double knitting" did not refer to the yarn thickness, but rather to a knitting technique that creates two layers of fabric at once – for example, for particularly warm, reversible items such as jackets, vests, or blankets.
Over time, however, the term has shifted in everyday language:
In Great Britain, certain yarns that were well-suited to this double-layered knitting technique began to be called "double knitting yarn". These yarns had a medium weight – not too thin, not too thick – and worked particularly well for tightly knit, durable projects.
Over the decades, this has evolved into a fixed term for a yarn weight: "DK" or "Double Knitting yarn", now used worldwide as a designation for a medium yarn weight, regardless of whether one actually knits double-knit or in regular stockinette stitch.
In short:
Double knitting originates from a traditional knitting technique, but later became the term for the appropriate yarn weight.
What does the yarn weight "Medium" or Worsted mean?
"Medium" is a common yarn weight, known as worsted in the USA. In the UK, it's close to Aran, but usually a bit thinner. Both categories roughly correspond to the Australian 10-ply.
The term "worsted" originally refers to a specific spinning method, not the thickness of the yarn. Therefore, it can occasionally happen that even thinner yarns – like DK – are spun using the worsted method. However, this is rarely seen in regular retail stores, but rather in handspun yarns.
A gauge swatch using 4.5–5.5 mm needles typically yields 16–20 stitches per 10 cm with this yarn weight. Generally, 3.5–5.5 mm needles are used for medium/worsted yarns, depending on the pattern and desired firmness.
Medium/Worsted is a very versatile everyday weight – ideal for sweaters, jackets, hats and anything that needs some warmth and structure.
Aran "Weighty" is a traditional term for a yarn weight, particularly common in Britain and Ireland. The term originates from the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland, where the famous Aran sweaters – heavy, warm fisherman sweaters with distinctive cable and textured patterns – were knitted.
For this type of dense, robust sweater, a yarn was needed that was slightly thicker than DK, but not quite as thick as Chunky. This led to the creation of the Aran yarn weight.
In practice, this means:
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Aran is slightly thicker than DK, but thinner than Chunky.
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Gauge: usually approx. 16–20 stitches per 10 cm
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Typical needle sizes: 4.5–5.5 mm
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Often comparable to US worsted, but Aran is usually slightly thicker.
In short:
Aran is a traditional Irish yarn weight, named after the famous Aran sweaters, and is between DK and Chunky.
What does the yarn weight "chunky" mean?
"Chunky" refers to a thick yarn weight. In the USA it is called Bulky, in Australia and New Zealand 12-ply. Icelandic Lopi yarns also belong to this category.
Chunky is a rather broad category: many manufacturers simply classify anything that requires needles thicker than 5.5 mm. As a result, yarns within this group can vary considerably in actual thickness – which can sometimes make finding replacement yarn a bit tricky.
A gauge swatch with chunky yarn typically yields 12–16 stitches per 10 cm, knitted with 5.5–8 mm needles. Usually, needles between 6 and 8 mm are used, depending on the desired result.
Chunky is ideal for quick, warm projects – voluminous scarves, thick hats or structured jackets that can be finished in no time.
Overview of special yarn types – explained simply
Wick yarn:
A single, loosely twisted thread. Soft, airy, but not particularly tear-resistant. Made of wool, it felts quickly – perfect for felting projects.
Flame yarn:
An effect yarn with irregular thickenings in the thread. These "flames" are created during spinning or twisting and result in a lively, uneven stitch pattern.
Bouclé yarn:
This is also an effect yarn, recognizable by small loops or knots in the thread. This makes the knitted fabric appear soft, plush, and a bit like a delicate fleece.
Ondégarn:
A thicker main thread is loosely wrapped with a thinner thread. This creates a slightly wavy, textured look.
Tweed yarn:
Distinctive due to small, colorful flecks of color ("neps"). These are incorporated during spinning and are firmly embedded in the yarn. Tweed has a rustic look and is very popular for sock yarn.
Tubular yarns
Chainette yarn:
A spun thread is processed into a light, chain-like tube – similar to using a knitting dolly. This makes the yarn voluminous, elastic, and particularly warm despite its light weight.
Tubular yarn:
A finely knitted tube that can be filled or unfilled depending on its use. Unfilled, it is suitable for accessories and decorations; filled with alpaca or merino fibers, it creates an extremely soft, fluffy yarn for light, cozy knitwear.
Ribbon yarn:
Also a tubular yarn, but flat and unfilled – like a narrow ribbon. Often made of cotton or viscose, ideal for summer projects and airy stitches.
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